Umbria

Umbria’s average annual wine production of 100 million litres (13th in volume among the regions) includes 31% DOC/DOCG and 40% IGT. Production of red wine slightly surpasses that of white in Umbria.

Umbria was historically renowned for white wine, thanks mainly to the prominence of Orvieto. But the scenic hills of the “green heart of Italy” have an undeniable aptitude for red wines, as exemplified in the region’s two DOCG’s: Montefalco Sagrantino and Torgiano Rosso Riserva.

Orvieto was once the most celebrated of Italian whites as a semisweet or abboccato wine, but as tastes changed Orvieto was modified from a soft, golden wine into a pale, pure, crisp creature of modern enology. Modern Orvieto is a commercial success as one of Italy’s best-selling DOC whites with a solid following abroad. Orvieto’s abboccato and amabile versions have made a comeback as dessert wines.

Although Procanico (a local species of Trebbiano) and Malvasia prevail in Orvieto, growers in the zone have been working successfully with such outside varieties as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and the Pinots, as well as the admirable local Grechetto.

Red wine from the area is covered by the DOC’s of Rosso Orvietano and Lago di Corbara. The first Umbrian red to achieve prominence was Torgiano Rosso Riserva, which gained special status as DOCG (though Torgiano DOC appellation covers a range of other wines). A modern classic based on Sangiovese, Torgiano Rosso Riserva has been known to age to unique splendour for two decades or more.

The Umbrian wine that has made the greatest impact is Sagrantino di Montefalco. Sagrantino, an ancient variety grown only around the hill town of Montefalco is an intriguing native that makes both dry and sweet wines of unusual power and finesse. It, too, has been granted a special DOCG, separate from the DOC Montefalco for lighter red and white wines.

Umbria has numerous curiosities among its vines and wines, though few of the local rarities ever leave the region. Vin Santo, pressed from semidried Grechetto or Malvasia grapes, is usually sweet and most prized by Umbrians as a wine for any occasion.