Marche

Marche’s average annual wine production of 95 million litres (14th in volume among the regions) includes 40% DOC/DOCG and 45% IGT. White wine accounts for 53% of regional production. Verdicchio is the bestseller among the wines of this region. But the long-time devotion to whites no longer obscures the merits of its red, recognised in the DOCG’s of Conero and Vernaccia di Serrapetrona.

The Castelli di Jesi zone, covering a vast tract of hills west of the port of Ancona, is the home of Verdicchio that decades ago made an impression abroad as a fresh flavoured fish wine in green amphora bottles. But a new style of Verdicchio has emerged as a white wine of distinguished character in standard bottles, now recognised as Riserva under DOCG. Verdicchio di Matelica, grown in limited quantities in a mountainous zone, can have more body and strength than wines from Jesi, as demonstrated in the Riserva DOCG. Some producers now make wines of such impressive depth and complexity with age that Verdicchio is increasingly ranked among the noblest native white varieties of Italy. Verdicchio from both zones makes good sparkling wine as well, usually by the sealed tank method of fermentation, but also occasionally by the classical method in bottle.

The red wines of the Marche are based chiefly on Montepulciano and Sangiovese – sometimes blended, sometimes not. The most important in terms of volume is Rosso Piceno, dominated by Sangiovese. It comes from a DOC zone covering much of the eastern flank of the region, stretching from the superiore area between Ascoli Piceno and the sea north through the coastal hills to Senigallia. Conero, dominated by Montepulciano, has gained even more praise, thanks to the devotion to quality shown by its leading producers who have been rewarded with DOCG. The zone covers the slopes of the Conero massif south of Ancona. Two unique red wines are gradually gaining more than local reputations: Vernaccia di Serrapetrona may be either dry or sweet, but it is always sparkling. Lacrima, a local vine of mysterious origin, makes red of flavours ranging from fruity dry to mellow sweet.

Sangiovese is prominent in the northern DOC zone of Colli Pesaresi, where wines bear a family resemblance to the reds of neighbouring Romagna. Bianchello del Metauro is usually light and zesty. Esino DOC, which coincides with parts of the two Verdicchio zones, provides for red and white wines, usually fresh and fruity. The white Falerio dei Colli Ascolani, from hills around Ascoli to the south, can show the inherent class of the Pecorino and Passerina varieties. The regionwide Marche IGT accounts for a major share of production.